Video

When To use short or long chains

• His preferred method is a short chain with an earth anchor (superstake). Length of chain from trap to earth-anchor-chain-itself looks like 7-9" maybe, but he didn't give the length.
• Long chains are almost 4' of chain from trap base to anchor.
• He anchors long chains with rebar.
• When he first started trapping he wasn't sure if earth anchors even existed.
• Rebar is #4 or 1/2" rebar. And he makes them 2 foot tall with a washer welded on to the top of them.
• He made them 2 foot tall because in the area he traps 18" wasn't enough.
• The problem with short chains and using only one piece of rebar is the coyote (not as much problem with smaller critters) will be able to stand up on its hind legs and pull up on the stake. So this is the reason Stu went to long chains, so this didn't happen. And to improve on that even more, use two stakes (cross stake).
• Long chains, you can use a lot of swivels, and if the trap can move around, you shouldn't have foot damage.
• Shock springs is another option.
• One benefit of short chain is if you did get a toe-catch, the coyote can't get a running start and pull out.
• Stu doesn't use drags but if he did he thought you'd need shock springs because once the trap got hung up, it's almost like the trap is hard anchored.
• Short chains, no running start, so better.
• In Stu's short-chain setup he still has four swiveling points in it.
• Another reason to use short-chain is he does a lot of step-down dirt hole sets. And if you have a short chain, After pounding in the earth anchor, you only have to bury that 7,8,9 inches (whatever) of chain to the trap.
• If you're in super-rocky terrain you may have to use rebar and not be able to use earch anchors.
• He thinks the biggest thing is having the swivel points all throughout the chain.
• Another positive of short chains is the coyote can't move around a lot, actually only about part of the length of the dirt hole trench itself, so remakes are easier.